Troubleshooting RV Converters and RV Inverters

Contributor

Tucker Ballister

Favorite Trip

5 Months Solo on the Road

Home Base

Hendersonville, NC

Favorite RV

Fleetwood Bounder

About Contributor

Tucker Ballister is our Content Strategist. He grew up RV camping in a Fleetwood Bounder with his parents and has lived and camped in two motorhomes and two travel trailers of his own. His current RV is a Forest River Campsite Ultra 26BW, which he loves taking on adventures with his wonderful partner and furry companion from their home base in Western North Carolina. Check out his adventures, gear reviews, and outdoor advice at thebackpackguide.com.

RV converters and RV inverters are essential to supply the correct type of electricity to your RV appliances. The video above helps explain why these two devices are essential and where to find them in your RV. But here’s a written breakdown.

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What is an RV Converter?

When you hook your RV up to 30 or 50-amp shore power, that power comes into your RV as alternating current (AC). An RV converter changes that 120-volt AC to 12-volt direct current (DC), allowing you to use appliances that require DC and charge your RV battery simultaneously. Your converter will typically be found next to your RV’s fuse box and breakers.

What Happens When the RV Converter Goes Bad?

When it goes bad, your converter will give you one of three main warning signs. These can vary depending on make and model, but you’ll typically see one of three things when your RV converter goes bad: 

• Onboard batteries won’t hold a charge. This could be a bad battery or a bad converter, so further testing is required.
• Interior lights aren’t as bright as normal. 
• Vent fans are spinning slowly. 

Both of these final points can be signs that these small RV appliances aren’t getting enough power.

How to Troubleshoot RV Converters

Testing an RV converter is a delicate process that must be completed in the correct sequence. Consult your owner’s manual for specific testing instructions from the manufacturer, as the exact voltages and recommended testing sequence may vary from model to model.

But these quick tests will help you test most RV power converters: 

Test your Coach Battery

1. Disconnect from all power sources.
2. Turn off the engine, generator, and inverter.
3. Connect a voltage meter to battery terminals to test.
4. Set your voltage meter to the Volts DC setting.
5. Your battery should maintain a consistent charge between 12.3 and 12.9 volts DC.
6. If you get a reading below 12.3 volts DC, recharge the battery until you get a reading between 12.3 and 12.9 volts DC.
7. Then wait 2-3 hours and re-test.
8. If your battery isn’t holding a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Test your Converter’s Output Voltage

1. Disconnect battery cables from the coach battery.
2. Plug your RV into a reliable AC power source.
3. Set your volt meter to the Volts DC setting.
4. Place the meter’s probes on the disconnected battery cables.
   1. Red probe to the positive battery wire.
   2. Black probe to the negative battery wire.
   3. Ensure good connections to the cables.
5. Voltage should read between 13.6 and 14.4 volts DC if the converter functions correctly.
6. If the output voltage reads 0.0 volts DC or the battery isn’t charging:
   1. If equipped, ensure the battery disconnect switch is in the normal use position.
   2. Check for an open inline fuse in the battery wire circuit.
   3. Check for loose wiring connections.

Check for a Reverse Battery Hookup (if no DC output comes from your converter)

1. Check the reverse polarity fuses on your RV’s fuse board.
2. Visually inspect them for breaks in the fuse element.
3. If no breaks are found, use a continuity tester to test for continuity.
4. If you find blown fuses, it’s a sign that your RV battery was connected in reverse.
   1. This could be the case at the battery or the converter.
   2. Check the cables at both locations and reconnect them properly.
   3. Replace the blown fuse with a fuse of the same type and Amperage rating as the original.

If no blown fuses are found, the connections to the battery and/or converter aren’t reversed, and you’re still getting an output voltage of 0.0 volts DC, contact the manufacturer or your nearest Camping World Service Center for further troubleshooting assistance.

Some RV converters are also equipped with an AC reverse polarity protection feature. If the AC neutral wire and the lead wire coming into your converter are connected backward, it triggers this protection feature and shuts your converter down.

Some converters may have an audible alarm that sounds when the AC wires aren’t connected properly. If your converter is equipped, the alarm will continue to sound until the wires are appropriately reconnected.

Will an RV Converter Work Without a Battery?

If your RV is unplugged and your battery dies, you’ll be without power in your coach. Using your RV without a battery isn’t recommended, as the 12-volt components inside often draw more amperage than your converter can supply.

Your battery is essential for providing the power to operate these components safely. If your RV is plugged in and the battery is disconnected, some small electronics, such as RV lights, may work off the converter alone. But maintaining a healthy battery in your RV is essential to safe RV use.

If you do need to disconnect your battery for any reason, power off all 12 volt appliances inside. Then consult your owner’s manual for the proper disconnection and replacement procedures.

What Does an Inverter Do in an RV?

If you’re dry camping or boondocking and not using a generator, installing an RV inverter is a good idea if your RV didn’t come with one pre-installed. RV inverters change DC to AC, but you’ll need to consult your owner’s manual for specifications on what type of inverter suits your RV and the appliances you want to power.

How to Test an RV Inverter

Use this sequence to test if your RV’s inverter is functioning correctly:

1. Disconnect from shore power and other power sources (like an RV generator).
2. Turn on appliances powered by the inverter one at a time.
   1. If an appliance is working, turn it off before testing another appliance.
3. After checking appliances, plug a small accessory into any outlets powered by the inverter to test them.

Most RV inverters only operate one or two circuits of your RV’s electrical system. Some high-end luxury RVs offer the ability to invert all circuits using multiple inverters. But most RV inverters power specific outlets or appliances, such as your refrigerator, microwave, or television.

Your owner’s manual will tell you which outlets or appliances should be powered by your inverter. But if you’re having trouble locating that information, contact your RV’s manufacturer.

If all the appliances and outlets on the inverter’s circuits are working properly, your inverter is doing its job. But further troubleshooting is required if you encounter a lack of power at any outlet or appliance.

How to Troubleshoot RV Inverters

Different symptoms will call for different RV inverter troubleshooting procedures. Because there are various inverter makes and models out there, your owner’s manual is your best resource for specific troubleshooting procedures.

That being said, here are some general troubleshooting tips for RV inverters: 

Check for Adequate DC Power Supply

1. Most RV power inverters are equipped with a status light.
2. If the status light is off, you usually have one or two problems:
   1. The inverter is switched Off.
   2. There’s no DC voltage connected to the inverter.
3. To remedy:
   1. Switch the inverter On.
   2. Connect a battery with the correct voltage.

A healthy RV battery should have a voltage above 12.5 volts DC. If the voltage is between 12.5 and 10 volts DC, your battery may be wearing out, but it may just need to be charged. Charge it until you get a reading of about 12.5 volts DC and wait 2-3 hours before retesting.

If the voltage is below 10 volts DC on the initial test, your battery may be bad, but it may also need to be recharged. If there’s a continuous draw on the battery, such as a light that was left on, it could draw the battery below 10 volts DC. While this may shorten the battery’s life, it doesn’t mean you have a bad battery.

Please refer to our guide on troubleshooting RV batteries and lights for tips on ensuring your RV is equipped with healthy coach and engine batteries. And if you have determined you have a battery, you’ll need to replace your RV battery before further testing.

Test Incoming AC Voltage

1. Some units are equipped with a dropout setting if the incoming AC voltage is lower than the programmed threshold (80 volts AC is standard on many units.)
2. To test:
   1. Set volt meter to the volts AC setting.
   2. Connect meter probes to AC neutral and lead wires.
      1. Red probe to lead wire.
      2. Black probe to neutral wire.
   3. Ensure voltage is present and above your inverter’s volts AC dropout level.

If it is below the minimum threshold, you have an inadequate shore power source that could damage your RV’s electrical system. You should already be utilizing a surge protector to protect your RV, but disconnect immediately if you find low voltage.

Check Circuit Breakers and Fuses

1. Turn off any and all appliances/devices that aren’t functioning properly.
2. Locate your RV’s electrical panel (consulting your owner’s manual may be necessary).
3. Identify the breaker that serves the malfunctioning device/appliance.
   1. The chart on the inside of the panel door should indicate which breakers serve which parts of your RV.
4. Note the position of the breaker’s handle. If it’s tripped, it’ll be positioned somewhere between the On and Off positions.
5. To reset, push the handle to the Off position before returning it to the On position.
6. Turn the malfunctioning device/appliance on to test.
   1. Leave it on for 30-60 seconds to confirm it’s working properly.

If your breaker trips again or is repeatedly doing so, there are two possibilities: a defective breaker or the appliance is drawing too much battery power. In either case, consult an RV service technician for advice on your best course of action.  

Examine the Cooling Fan

1. If no issues are present with your battery, incoming AC shore power source, circuit breakers, or fuses, your inverter’s cooling fan could be the culprit.
2. The fan should cycle on and off periodically when your inverter is in use.
   1. Listen for the fan to cycle to ensure it’s functioning properly.
   2. Heat buildup can melt or damage critical inverter components if it doesn’t.
3. To check:
   1. Visually inspect your inverter for melted parts or other deformities.
   2. Ensure there’s plenty of open space around the inverter to allow airflow.

Working with electrical systems on recreational vehicles can be tricky. While they’re not overly complicated, minor errors when troubleshooting can damage sensitive appliances. Sometimes, you’re better off scheduling an appointment at your nearest Camping World Service center.

And if you’re still learning the ins and outs of RV maintenance, check out our downloadable RV ownership and maintenance booklet!

But if you want to enjoy the RV lifestyle without worrying about RV maintenance, consider renting an RV for your next adventure.

What additional questions or comments do you have about RV converters and inverters? Leave them in the comments below!

Author

• Tucker Ballister is our Content Strategist. He grew up RV camping in a Fleetwood Bounder with his parents and has lived and camped in two motorhomes and two travel trailers of his own. His current RV is a Forest River Campsite Ultra 26BW, which he loves taking on adventures with his wonderful partner and furry companion from their home base in Western North Carolina. Check out his adventures, gear reviews, and outdoor advice at thebackpackguide.com.

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Video Of Our RV Water Filtration Setup

RV Water Pressure Regulators

First things first – why do you need a water pressure regulator?

The simple answer is that most RV water lines are designed to handle no more than 100psi. Many RV parks have low enough water pressure that you don’t need a regulator, however plenty have very high water pressure that can burst RV water lines. It would be horrible to have your RV spring a leak – especially in an enclosed area or when you’re not there. A bad leak could cause permanent water damage to your floor, cabinets, walls, storage bins, and anything stored in any of those locations.

1. Cheap Inline Water Pressure Regulators are usually set to 40 – 50psi. This is unnecessarily low, and makes for a weak shower unless you’re using an Oxygenics Shower Head (read our Oxygenics Showerhead Review →).

2. In-line regulators aren’t designed to be cleaned or maintained easily. Over time they clog up with dirt, calcium, and lime deposits – which means you’ll need to buy a new regulator. In the meantime, you’ll struggle with increasingly low water pressure.

I’m speaking from experience as we went through two of these models (a Valterra and then a Camco unit) before I purchased our current adjustable water pressure regulator. More on that below.

Recommended Water Pressure Regulators for Part Time RVers:

Water Pressure Regulator Recommendation for Full-Time RVers

As a full-time RVer I don’t want to have to continually replace water pressure regulators so it makes sense to get a quality unit that will last a long time. Also – the last thing I want to think about while RVing is water pressure! I just want the shower, sink and toilet to work as designed, and I don’t want to have to think about it. As a result it felt like a no-brainer to upgrade to a quality adjustable water pressure regulator. I love the ability to set the water pressure to a specific PSI (60psi = perfect to me) and it completely changed the experience of taking a shower in our RV.

I think adjustable water pressure regulators are basically a requirement for all RVers, but it’s a must (in my opinion) if you full time. It’s the closest you can get to house water flow while still protecting your RV, without using your water pump at the same time.

I keep mine permanently mounted to the inlet side of my water filtration system and connect the hose directly to the pressure regulator when hooking up. As I mentioned above, in an ideal world I’d mount the pressure regulator before the hose, as this would protect the hose from high water pressure.

Personally I feel more comfortable keeping my pressure regulator in a locked garage compartment. It would be very easy to steal it if it were mounted outside – not that there’s a lot of theft at RV Parks, but there is some (we had a bike stolen last year).

Ok, I think that’s enough about Water Pressure Regulators – on to water filtration!

RV Water Filtration

I’m a firm believer that every RVer should filter the water that comes into their RV. This isn’t because I’m a health nut, or because I think city water will kill you (although a lot of city water is questionable), but has to do with your RV itself.

RV Water Filtration Recommendation for Part-Time RVers

The big considerations for water filtration when you’re a part time RVer are cost, effectiveness, and filter reusability as it’s unlikely that you’ll get maximum use out of a filter during a two week vacation – and certainly won’t on a weekend trip.

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Reusability is an important consideration as most water filters are designed to be used continuously. If they’re left in stagnant (non-moving) water, or if they’re removed and stored wet, they’ll grow bacteria, algae, and other stuff that you don’t want to drink.

The 3 Drawbacks to the Camco Inline Filter:

#1 – The Camco Filter is only rated down to 100 microns. That means it won’t filter microbial cysts like cryptosporidium (between 3 and 6 microns) and giardia, although you probably don’t need to worry about those in United States drinking water. It also means any particle smaller than 100 microns will pass through the filter, and unfortunately the majority of particles in tap water are small and will pass through.

#2 – As the Camco filter uses KDF, and KDF uses granulated carbon (vs. solid block), about half the chlorine will get through the filter. 50% is an improvement that you can taste, but it’s still worth noting.

#3 – The Filters Clog up Relatively Quickly. As the filter is trying to do everything (vs a multi-canister system) they can clog up after a month or so. I’ve read anywhere from 30 – 45 days of use (maybe 60?). This depends (of course) on how much water you use and how good your source water is.

In spite of these issues, the Camco water filter is still the fastest, cheapest, and easiest way to filter water and it’s probably the best option for most RVers. Note that Camco also has a premium version called the EVO Premium filter which I’ve linked to below. This unit does work better and last longer than their inline filter.

As a full-time RVer myself I quickly came to the realization that an inline water filter wasn’t going to cut it. The filters don’t do a good enough job, and considering they clog up after 30 – 45 days of use, they get expensive in a hurry. As such I decided to purchase and use the 3-canister system you see at the top of this article. Read on for my thoughts and recommendations for 2 and 3-canister filtration systems.

RV Water Filtration Recommendation for Full-Time RVers

A lot has changed since I originally wrote this article – including a couple of my recommendations. First, if you’re interested in a premium RV Water Filtration solution, then read my ClearSource RV Water Filter Review. Clearsource makes the most robust RV Water Filter System I’ve used, and it’s free-standing design is good for any RV – as long as you can fit it in storage. That said, it’s expensive, so I’ve listed some less expensive and still good options below as well.

Note that even though our system was 3 canister, I recommend a 2 canister system to most RVers. In 6+ years of RVing, I’ve only rarely used the 3rd canister, so I consider it unnecessary. All the systems below include a set of filters (sediment + carbon), although some filters are better than others. I can vouch for the quality of the Clearsource unit, and the white 2-canister filtration system listed is similar to the unit we used for 6+ years.

Water Filters

For the second filter there are two good options. First, a combination KDF/Granulated Activated Carbon filter like this 10 micron KDF 55 unit is a good option. It’s expensive, but should last up to 2 years and has KDF so it’s perfect for intermittent use. This is also a good filter for a part-time RVer as it uses KDF so is bacteriostatic.

An even better option (in my opinion) is a Compressed Carbon Block Filter →. This filter won’t last as long as the KDF unit, but block carbon filters do a much better job of removing chlorine and bad taste than granulated activated carbon.

Note that a .5 micron filter like the Pentek I’ve linked to here may slow water flow a bit – and if that’s a concern than stick with the 1 micron activated carbon unit I linked to above.

3-Canister System Filter Options

If you do chose to install a 3-canister water filtration system like ours, then you have even more filter options. You can use a 10 or 5 micron pre-filter, then a 1 micron filter, and finally a carbon filter for taste and odor.

Alternatively you can stick with the 1 micron sediment filter and a carbon filter and add a speciality filter. Specialty filters are designed to perform specific functions including:

De-ionization Cartridges – designed to remove trace minerals from water using resin beads. These tend to be low-flow units, so you’ll need to fill your fresh water tank and then use the water from there.

Birm Cartridges – remove iron and manganese. Both metals impact the color and taste of your water.

Phosphate Cartridges – As an alternative to a water softener, phosphate cartridges reduce lime and scale buildup in your water heater and RV. They do this by releasing small amounts of phosphate that coat your water lines and system and prevent lime and scale from forming. Yes, they add a little phosphate to your water. This may be preferable to a water softener, as water softeners add sodium to your water instead.

Activated Alumina Cartridges – remove flouride and arsenic-5 from your water (not arsenic-3 – you’ll need a different filter for that.).

Nitrate Cartridges – remove nitrates from water.

There are many more specialty filters, but this will at least give you an idea of what’s possible. The more you learn about water filtration the more there is to learn – and the more you realize how much stuff can potentially be in your water! Don’t worry, most ‘city’ water in the United States is tested and clean enough. Most specialty filters are designed to address regional water quality issues – especially for well water. In general I don’t think you’ll need them which is why I recommend a 2-canister system.

Reverse Osmosis for RVs

Reverse osmosis (RO) is the process of forcing water through a semi-permeable membrane as a means of producing ‘pure’ water. In the case of RV reverse osmosis the water won’t be 100% pure, however RO will clean the water better than any filter and removes most lime and calcium without the use of a water softener.

Reverse Osmosis systems are fairly expensive. If you’re starting from scratch plan on spending $300 for a ‘standard’ setup, and as much as $500 for an automatic setup.

RO systems require 3 components:

#1 – RO canister and membrane cartridge. This usually costs around $100. You’ll need to periodically replace the RO membrane cartridge (around $70) for best results, as their performance degrades over time.

#2 – A filtration System. For best results you need to start with the cleanest water possible. It’s recommended that you use both a particle/sediment filter and a solid-block carbon filter before the RO cartridge. Pre-filtering will make the (expensive) membrane cartridge last a lot longer.

#3 – A boost pump. RO requires high water pressure, so if you live in a high pressure area you can skip this part – but if you move around (full timers), then a boost pump is a must to ensure proper function of the RO system.

There are many other components that can be added to an RO system, including automatic system on/off switches with water tank sensors and water meters to check for water purity.

Why don’t I recommend Reverse Osmosis for RVs?

Originally I was very interested in adding RO to our RV, right up until I learned about brine. Brine is another name for the water that doesn’t make it through the RO membrane, and it contains the particles and contaminants that were removed from your water. Sounds great, right?

The problem with brine and RO is that under ideal conditions only 20% to 30% of the water that enters the system becomes clean water. That means that 70% to 80% of the water goes right down the drain!

This felt like much too big a waste of water to me. We use about 20 gallons of water a day between showers, washing dishes, and drinking water. I wouldn’t want to waste between 60 and 80 gallons of water to get those 20 gallons of water.

The Other Problem with Reverse Osmosis

There’s a second problem with Reverse Osmosis – even though water is being forced into the membrane at high pressure, because only 20% – 30% of the water makes it through the membrane it comes through at very low pressure.

That means that instead of running water directly into your RV, you need to store the water in your fresh water tank and then use your RV’s water pump to use the water. This will add to the expense of your system as most standard water pumps are more suitable for occasional dry camping than full-time use. An upgraded water pump – like those from Aquajet – will cost another $160.

If you want Reverse Osmosis Anyway

RV Portable Water Softeners

Hard water is water that’s high in mineral content – specifically calcium, lime, and magnesium. You can tell if you have hard water by simply washing your hair. Shampoo doesn’t get sudsy in hard water. Alternatively if you boil a pot of water you’ll see white and greenish particle drop out of solution and form a crust on the side of the pot/pan if you’re in a hard water area.

Normal water filters can’t remove these particles from water because the calcium and lime is fully dissolved in the water. That means there are no particles to filter – much like if you run salt water through a filter it will still be salty. If you remember back to Chemistry, this is what’s known as being ‘in solution’. The calcium is literally part of the water.

The big problem with hard water is that it leaves mineral buildup – known as scale – on everything. It lines your pipes, coats the inside of your water heater, sits in your fresh water tank, and will clog your pipes as chunks of it come loose.

We lived in our RV in California for a year, and California has notoriously hard water. When we left the state, chunks of scale broke free from wherever they’d been lodged (mostly in the water heater) and clogged EVERYTHING. Our sinks stopped working, our toilet water lines clogged, our shower plugged up, etc.. I was able to remove most of it from our system, but had to open up a bunch of water lines to dump out the chunks of scale, and had to backflush/drain the system several times.

If I had known at the time, I would have used a portable Water softener to prevent this from happening.

July update – We Added an On The Go Portable Water Softener

I’ll be adding a review of our water softener in the future – but for now, here’s a picture of our water softener tucked into the ‘garage’ of our RV.

How Water Softeners Work

Water softeners remove hard-water-causing minerals from water by using thousands of small negatively charged polystyrene beads. The beads need to be regularly ‘charged’ with salt to work.

When your water softener is charged, you then connect it to your inlet water and the hard water moves through the softener. As the hard water moves past the beads, the sodium (salt) is swapped with calcium and magnesium because calcium and magnesium have a stronger positive charge than sodium. This means you’ll have small amounts of salt in your water – a potential concern if you have high blood pressure – but it removes the minerals that cause scale.

You’ll notice the difference right away as your hair and skin will feel softer after a shower and soap will do a better jobs of washing your dishes – plus you won’t have scale forming on all of your appliances including your coffee pot.

Water Softener Drawbacks

I hope you found this post useful. I did my best to condense a LOT of information into a relatively small space and include helpful links to recommended products (these are sponsored/affiliate links, but they’re also the products we’ve used and tested ourselves).

Many RV parks have sketchy water, so I hope this post inspires you to add water filtration to your RV. At the very least always use a water pressure regulator! Good luck out there, and happy trekking.

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