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With industrial and heavy-duty equipment, the significance of the right tools cannot be overstated. This is where custom welded carts come into play, serving as essential tools tailored to meet the specific demands of various industries. In this comprehensive buyer’s guide, we delve into the benefits of custom welded carts and offer insights on designing and procuring the perfect cart for your business needs.
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Custom welded carts are renowned for their robustness and adaptability, making them a top choice for businesses across multiple sectors. Here’s a closer look at the advantages they offer:
To maximize the benefits of your custom welded cart, consider the following elements during the design phase:
Identify the primary function of your cart. What tasks will it perform? What type of environment will it operate in? Will it need to support heavy loads? Answering these questions will help you define the optimal cart design, size, and features.
The choice of materials is crucial for the cart’s performance and durability. Steel is a common choice for its robustness and load-bearing capacity, ensuring a heavy duty cart. However, aluminum or stainless steel might be more appropriate for specific applications or environments due to their lighter weight and resistance to corrosion.
The functionality of your custom welded cart can be enhanced with various features tailored to your needs:
Selecting the right manufacturer is pivotal when it comes time to purchase your custom welded cart. Consider factors such as the manufacturer’s experience, reputation, and the quality of customer feedback. Maintaining clear and open communication with your manufacturer is crucial to ensure the final product meets your exact specifications.
By understanding the benefits and design considerations for custom welded carts, you can invest in a solution that enhances your business’s operational efficiency and safety. Custom carts are more than just equipment; they are a pivotal part of your workflow optimization.
If you’re new to welding, the wide range of products on the market may appear mind-blowing at first.
Like Ford, Toyota, and Mercedes Benz in the auto industry, there are several major welder manufacturers. The big boys are Lincoln, Miller, Hobart (now owned by Miller), and ESAB.
Just like automakers that turn out sedans, pickups, sports coupes, and SUVs, there are several “models” of welding machines, each serving a different purpose and catering to certain users.
Picking the right one for you doesn’t have to be hard. The information below can help guide you through the process.
The most common welders in use are:
There are also versatile, more expensive multi-process machines that can weld with more than one welding process. Also, there are engine-driven (fuel-powered) welders for work off the electrical grid. (These more complex welders will be covered in different articles.)
For this introduction, we will focus on the basic MIG, TIG, and stick welders. If you’re unfamiliar with the different welding processes, check out the main welding processes guide before proceeding here.
An understanding of the basic processes is important for a new or aspiring welder. Your prospects for employment increase dramatically if you understand the features and benefits associated with the various types of welders.
For example, knowing which model works best for a particular assignment and what filler rod, wire, or stick electrode best meets code requirements qualifies you for work as a supervisor, project assistant, weld technician, or purchaser at your company.
This article starts with the basics of choosing a machine. After that, I will show you how to read the “specs” included in the product sales literature and teach you how to compare key features.
The majority of welds done involve carbon steel pipe or sheet metal. Carbon steel (or ordinary steel) can handle a lot of heat. So, unlike the other metals listed below, this metal is very forgiving when a novice welder applies too much heat.
Most welding processes accommodate carbon steel. Plus, you don’t need a lot of features on the machine to produce a good-looking weld.
Stainless steel (“SS”) is more finicky when it comes to dealing with heat. Composed of steel, chromium, and nickel, manufacturers use this alloy for food/beverage vessels and many other products, largely because of its anti-corrosion properties.
Workers typically weld SS using MIG or TIG machines. SS welds require less current than carbon steel to address the metal’s lower thermal conductivity.
Plus, the increased difficulty with most SS welds requires a welder with decent controls to get your arc and/or puddle right.
You can also find stainless steel stick electrodes. This allows you to use a stick welder to get the job done. But keep in mind, the base metal must be thick enough to withstand the high heat of a stick welder, and you often get more spatter compared to a MIG or TIG welder.
Related: Why welding of stainless steel is difficult
For welders, aluminum comes from another planet.
As a non-ferrous metal, aluminum conducts heat so well that you constantly need more of it to keep your puddle molten. At the same time, the workpiece distorts easily if it gets too hot. Consequently, aluminum frequently requires more complex equipment to get the job done.
You can use MIG welders (especially one with a pulse welding feature) on aluminum. Still, many wire-feed mechanisms struggle to feed the aluminum filler wire. So a separate add-on must be purchased, called a spool gun.
If you intend to MIG aluminum, make sure your MIG welder can accept a spool gun. Not all of them do.
A TIG welder designed for aluminum should include an AC power out option (“AC-TIG”). Other helpful features include inverter-based electronics, square wave technology, balance control, and a pulse option. Naturally, these added features will drive up a TIG welder’s cost.
Although it’s not the preferred choice, a stick welding machine can also weld aluminum. Like stainless steel, the base metal must be thick enough to withstand the high heat.
Titanium (used on custom bicycles and airplanes), Chromoly (used on motorcycles and automobiles), and other exotic metals have their own thermal sensitivity issues that welders must consider.
Because these metals are so expensive, you don’t want to be making mistakes when you weld them. Hence, they require a sophisticated TIG machine with lots of control, along with plenty of set-up and fit-up, and a seasoned veteran at the controls.
The thicker the metal, the more current you need to weld a joint with good penetration.
Since the cost of a welding machine is based in part on how much juice it generates, you must determine in advance the maximum thickness of base metals and fixtures you’re going to be working on in your shop.
Thick structural steel and pipe thicker than a half-inch require the use of a heavy-duty MIG welding machine or a stick welder. According to Miller Electric, you need one amp of power for every one-hundredth inch of mild steel thickness.
For example, a 1/8″ (.125 in) sheet of mild steel requires approximately 125 amps. Stainless steel needs about 10% less juice than carbon steel, while aluminum needs about 25% more. Current settings are also tied to the diameter of filler wire/rods, as explained in our other tutorial for setting MIG machine parameters.
Conversely, working with very thin metal requires low heat (and lower amps) on a more sensitive welding machine. In this case, the objective is to provide just enough heat to get the job done.
Sometimes a low current induces an unstable arc, and that’s a welder’s nightmare. Besides that, if too much heat enters the base metal, the area surrounding the weld weakens or melts.
So, if you need to work with thin stock or aluminum, pay attention to the low end of the amps, too. Also, many of the features just described above for aluminum will also apply when welding extremely thin stock of any metal type.
If you’re careful, you can use an oxyacetylene kit to weld thin ferrous material. But make sure the torch can accommodate a tiny three-ought (i.e., 000) sized welding nozzle.
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Knowing where you will be welding most of the time figures into what sort of equipment you should purchase.
There are a couple of things to think about:
If you’re plugging the machine into the wall (i.e., the power grid), your choices are as follows:
If you’re welding outdoors and don’t have access to the power grid, you’ll need an engine-driven welder or welder-generator to complete the assignment. Farmers and welders who work in the field typically buy this type of machine.
Depending on the model, the generators run on gasoline, diesel, or liquid propane (not all three) and accommodate a stick welding torch, a Tig torch, or a MIG/Flux-core wire-feed unit and gun. The low end of this product niche starts at about $ and is used only for stick welding.
When reviewing product sales literature, look for the symbols CC (constant current) and CV (constant voltage) if you intend to run the welder off a generator.
CV machines are costlier but are the right choice if you’re plugging a MIG/flux-cored welder into a generator. You’ll also need to know your power requirements (i.e., maximum watts) to choose the right sized generator.
Beware, California only permits the use of generators meeting low carbon emission standards, otherwise known as CARB-compliant.
If you expect to be welding in unsheltered areas where a breeze is possible, this may negatively affect your welds.
The CO2/argon gas used with the MIG process to shield a weld’s molten puddle will get blown away and be ineffective. This problem results in oxidation and porosity in your welds.
In breezy conditions where shielding gas cannot be used, you’ll want to be able to switch a MIG machine over to the flux-cored mode (or use a straight flux-cored welder). The coated wire provides everything you need to make a good weld, including the shielding, so no gas is needed.
Alternatively, a stick welder will work in a breezy environment (but not too breezy). Like flux-cored wire in the MIG machine, a stick electrode is a flux coated to provide what you need.
Both of these welding processes contain solid deoxidizers within the wire or rod. They vaporize directly over the puddle during welding, leaving a protective layer of slag behind.
When reading the sales literature for different welders, the jargon and sales pitch can become hard to cut through.
But here are a few key things to look for:
This spec tells you how much uninterrupted welding a machine can knock in ten minutes.
Traditionally, the duty cycle is defined as the number of minutes out of a 10-minute period a welder can weld at the highest current the machine offers. After reaching the limit, the machine must be allowed to cool down for the remainder of the 10-minute duration.
Sometimes, manufacturers report the duty cycle as a percentage. So, you must do the math in your head. Simply multiply the percentage by ten to get the minutes you can weld per 10-minute interval. If you exceed the duty cycle, the machine heats up, and the circuits inside may fry.
For example, a very inexpensive machine with a maximum current of 70 amps may have a 10 percent duty cycle. This means you can weld for 1 minute out of every 10 without the equipment overheating or burning out.
In general, you can look for duty cycles depending on your needs. As a rule of thumb:
But nowadays, manufacturers play with the formula. To boast a higher duty cycle, they report the percentage based on a lower amperage setting. So for a machine that provides has a 10% duty cycle at a maximum of 140 amps, you might see a rating of 30% at 115 amps instead.
So, when reading the duty cycle for various welders, note the amps as well. The duty cycle goes up as the amps go down.
On the upside, you can use the same tactic to get around a low-duty cycle for a machine that otherwise fits all your needs. Just buy the model with a higher maximum current than you expect to use. That way, you effectively increase your duty cycle at the amps you need to use.
This is the voltage emanating from an arc welding torch or gun when the current is not flowing.
On the one hand, it’s sort of dangerous to have a live circuit sitting around on the workbench with the potential to cause a serious injury. (That’s why OSHA limits OCV on equipment.)
On the other hand, OCV affects how a torch electrode will perform when striking an arc. Some types of welding need the extra punch you get at start-up.
In particular, E and E rods in stick welding require a reasonably high OCV. That enables a crisper arc to start as the welder scratches the rod against the metal to begin the weld.
A frequent problem for students is the inability to strike an arc, so a low OCV on a small welding machine may aggravate the situation. You should take note of the OCV in the specs if you are a rookie learning how to weld.
An OCV of about 80 volts is considered normal in a stick welder. In a MIG welder, it can drop to about 35, but it’s not a big deal since, with MIG welding, the arc normally starts without fuss when you pull the trigger.
Either a machine has it or doesn’t, and you should only buy a machine that has it. This feature automatically cuts output power to your torch or gun if the circuit inside starts overheating.
The fan or other cooling mechanism will continue running to help disperse the heat (assuming you leave the machine turned on).
In some specs, this feature is clearly stated. But with other products, you may need to check the equipment manual or ask a sales rep.
Various gases (CO2, argon, oxygen, etc.) or mixtures of gases are used for different welding processes.
For MIG welds, the type of gas you need depends on the process, the base metal, welding position, and environmental conditions. The gases used include argon, CO2, helium, oxygen, and nitrogen, or blends of these gases. For example, a blend of argon and CO2 is common.
With oxyfuel welding, you simply need oxygen and fuel gas.
You can read more on welding gases here.
A TIG machine typically uses pure argon. But in certain special applications, it may require helium. TIG shielding gas may come as a special blend of gases designed for specific applications like MIG welding gases.
If you need to use compressed gas, you’ll want to consider a few other things:
We’ve rounded up the top picks in each category. Find them below:
Choosing the right welder comes down to finding what machine fits your needs. The five key points just covered will aid you in that process and include:
These steps not only help you walk through the process of selecting a welder. You will learn about the various units and what works best in certain situations. Knowledge of the various welding processes and machines commonly used makes you a better welder and more valuable to a potential employer.
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